| The Tex system (most likely derived the word textile) was created as a new standard of consistent thread measurement and intended to replace all other methods of measurement of threads. It hasn’t quite achieved that goal because quilters love the weight standard and the number standard (for example, 40 wt. or #50) and embroiderers are used to the denier standard (120d/2). Because the International Organization for Standardization (IOS) has adopted the Tex system, it will probably continue to gain in popularity so it would be advantageous to understand it. Tex is an accurate measurement and is considered a direct numbering system, meaning the higher the Tex number, the heavier the thread. On the other hand, the weight system, most popular in the U.S., is not a direct numbering system because the larger the number (30 wt., 40 wt., 50. wt., 60 wt.), the finer the thread. That can be confusing. The Tex standard uses 1,000 meters of thread per gram as the starting point. This means if 1,000 meters of thread weighs one gram, it is Tex 1. If 1,000 meters of thread weighs 25 grams, it is Tex 25. Although this appears to be a very accurate measurement, it is necessary to remember that 1,000 meters of cotton will not weigh the same as 1,000 meters of like-diameter polyester. Therefore, when comparing thread sizes based on the Tex or any other standard of measure, for exact accuracy, compare cotton to cotton, poly to poly, and silk to silk. We use the Tex measurement on some of our newer threads and on all our industrial (apparel and upholstery) threads. Fine Tex Threads . . . . . . Tex 9 to Tex 20 Medium Tex Threads . . . Tex 21 to Tex 45 Heavy Tex Threads . . . . . Tex 45 and higher Please click here or on the link below for the list of most of our threads, grouped by use, showing the Tex measurement for each. Tex Measurement Chart, Listed by Thread Type This information is shared with permission from the Superior Threads website. Please stop by the site for additional thread info! |
Showing posts with label Superior threads. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Superior threads. Show all posts
Saturday, February 2, 2013
The Tex Measurement Standard
Thursday, February 2, 2012
Continuing Education from Superior Threads
I get no kick-back from Superior Threads: I'm just a happy customer. There are two brands of thread I use exclusively in my studio: Superior and Aurifil. Both of these companies are very responsive to their market. I appreciate that.
The monthly newsletter that comes to my email box from Superior is always informative. It is worth reading!
With permission, I am sharing some info about needles that is very important. We often blame our thread or our sewing machine tension when we have repeated thread breakage. We sometimes neglect the possibility of a faulty needle. Take a look:
The monthly newsletter that comes to my email box from Superior is always informative. It is worth reading!
With permission, I am sharing some info about needles that is very important. We often blame our thread or our sewing machine tension when we have repeated thread breakage. We sometimes neglect the possibility of a faulty needle. Take a look:
Needles 
Have you ever wondered what a needle burr is? The eye of a needle is punched out in the manufacturing process. Sometimes the punch process is not clean and a microscopic fragment of metal is left behind (see photo at left of a new Universal #80/12 needle -- not ours!). As the thread goes through the needle, the burr snags it and causes problems. If it is a small burr and you are using a cotton thread, the burr will snag some cotton and pull out a piece of lint while the thread keeps going. If you are using a smooth polyester thread, the burr will snag the thread and result in breakage. This explains why sometimes a cotton thread might run well, but a stronger poly thread breaks. A large burr will cause problems for all threads. Burrs usually do not develop during use but exist in an imperfect needle. A burr in a smaller-eye needle (most needle styles) will cause more problems than a burr in a larger eye needle (Topstitch style).
During a visit with the largest industrial needle manufacturer in the world, I was surprised to see their catalog. It was as big as a phone book. There were hundreds of different needle styles, each offering a variety of sizes. I estimated a total of 4,000 choices. For the past 12 years, we have learned much from professional quilters, embroiderers, general sewists (I like this new word better than sewers), and educators. As far as needles are concerned, many tell us the needle they use in home machines is the Topstitch style needle -- regardless if they are piecing, quilting, constructing, or embroidering. (The only exception to this rule is when sewing on knit fabrics, and then a ballpoint needle is used.) FYI, the least favorite needle of professionals is the Universal needle.
There are three main advantages of a Topstitch needle.
1. The point is sharp, but not razor sharp. It has a very slightly rounded sharp point with allows the needle point to penetrate without cutting the fibers. Many needles have a similar point.
2. Wider and deeper groove. All needles have a groove which runs up the shaft of the needle. The thread lies in the groove rather than along the outside of the needle. The groove on Topstitch needles is wider and deeper than most other needle styles. This is beneficial especially for medium, heavy, decorative, and sensitive threads.
3. The favorite feature of the Topstitch needle is the extra large eye (see photo below). It is twice as large as most other needle styles. The large eye gives much more room for thread as it moves through the needle and greatly reduces stress on thread. (Click on the images to see close up details.)
Have you ever wondered what a needle burr is? The eye of a needle is punched out in the manufacturing process. Sometimes the punch process is not clean and a microscopic fragment of metal is left behind (see photo at left of a new Universal #80/12 needle -- not ours!). As the thread goes through the needle, the burr snags it and causes problems. If it is a small burr and you are using a cotton thread, the burr will snag some cotton and pull out a piece of lint while the thread keeps going. If you are using a smooth polyester thread, the burr will snag the thread and result in breakage. This explains why sometimes a cotton thread might run well, but a stronger poly thread breaks. A large burr will cause problems for all threads. Burrs usually do not develop during use but exist in an imperfect needle. A burr in a smaller-eye needle (most needle styles) will cause more problems than a burr in a larger eye needle (Topstitch style).
During a visit with the largest industrial needle manufacturer in the world, I was surprised to see their catalog. It was as big as a phone book. There were hundreds of different needle styles, each offering a variety of sizes. I estimated a total of 4,000 choices. For the past 12 years, we have learned much from professional quilters, embroiderers, general sewists (I like this new word better than sewers), and educators. As far as needles are concerned, many tell us the needle they use in home machines is the Topstitch style needle -- regardless if they are piecing, quilting, constructing, or embroidering. (The only exception to this rule is when sewing on knit fabrics, and then a ballpoint needle is used.) FYI, the least favorite needle of professionals is the Universal needle.
There are three main advantages of a Topstitch needle.
1. The point is sharp, but not razor sharp. It has a very slightly rounded sharp point with allows the needle point to penetrate without cutting the fibers. Many needles have a similar point.
2. Wider and deeper groove. All needles have a groove which runs up the shaft of the needle. The thread lies in the groove rather than along the outside of the needle. The groove on Topstitch needles is wider and deeper than most other needle styles. This is beneficial especially for medium, heavy, decorative, and sensitive threads.
3. The favorite feature of the Topstitch needle is the extra large eye (see photo below). It is twice as large as most other needle styles. The large eye gives much more room for thread as it moves through the needle and greatly reduces stress on thread. (Click on the images to see close up details.)
In our sewing room, we have only four needles:
1. Topstitch #70/10 for very fine threads such as MonoPoly, #100 Kimono Silk, and Bottom Line.
2. Topstitch #80/12 for fine threads (50 wt.) such as MasterPiece cotton and So Fine #50 polyester.
3. Topstitch #90/14 for medium threads (40 wt.) such as King Tut, Rainbows, Art Studio Colors, Highlights, Metallic, and Glitter.
4. Topstitch #100/16 for heavier threads (30 wt. and heavier) such as So Fine #30, Perfect Quilter, and Poly Quilter.
But how about metallic needles? Here is the truth. The best selling brand of home machine needles in the world packages the Topstitch needle in a green Topstitch needle pack and also packages the same Topstitch needle in a gold pack and labels it as Metallic needles. They are the identical needle in two different packs. No wonder those metallic needles work so well! They are Topstitch needles.
How about titanium-coated needles? These needles are very similar to regular chrome needles but have a micro-thin coating of titanium nitride (a ceramic-like substance) applied. This micro-thin coating does not affect the overall strength of the needle, but it does make the needle last longer (5 to 8 times longer than a regular needle) and it costs only 20 cents more. Most factories around the world use titanium-coated needles due to their durability. If you have heard the rumor that titanium-coated needles can damage your machine, don't believe it. They do not create any greater risk than does a regular needle. Professionals and factories would not use them if there were a greater risk of damage. Use them and enjoy them. They really do last a long time. For scientific results of laboratory testing, please view the Organ Needle Company brochure.
Our Topstitch needles, which fit all home machines are titanium-coated.
View Bob's video presentation on needles
1. Topstitch #70/10 for very fine threads such as MonoPoly, #100 Kimono Silk, and Bottom Line.
2. Topstitch #80/12 for fine threads (50 wt.) such as MasterPiece cotton and So Fine #50 polyester.
3. Topstitch #90/14 for medium threads (40 wt.) such as King Tut, Rainbows, Art Studio Colors, Highlights, Metallic, and Glitter.
4. Topstitch #100/16 for heavier threads (30 wt. and heavier) such as So Fine #30, Perfect Quilter, and Poly Quilter.
But how about metallic needles? Here is the truth. The best selling brand of home machine needles in the world packages the Topstitch needle in a green Topstitch needle pack and also packages the same Topstitch needle in a gold pack and labels it as Metallic needles. They are the identical needle in two different packs. No wonder those metallic needles work so well! They are Topstitch needles.
How about titanium-coated needles? These needles are very similar to regular chrome needles but have a micro-thin coating of titanium nitride (a ceramic-like substance) applied. This micro-thin coating does not affect the overall strength of the needle, but it does make the needle last longer (5 to 8 times longer than a regular needle) and it costs only 20 cents more. Most factories around the world use titanium-coated needles due to their durability. If you have heard the rumor that titanium-coated needles can damage your machine, don't believe it. They do not create any greater risk than does a regular needle. Professionals and factories would not use them if there were a greater risk of damage. Use them and enjoy them. They really do last a long time. For scientific results of laboratory testing, please view the Organ Needle Company brochure.
Our Topstitch needles, which fit all home machines are titanium-coated.
View Bob's video presentation on needles
Thursday, October 28, 2010
Why I love Topstitch needles from Superior Threads.....
After receiving (and reading) the monthly newsletter from Superior Threads, I decided to post Bob's tutorial on Topstitch needles. If you haven't used Superior's titanium-coated needles I encourage you to try them. These needles last soooooo much longer than any other brand. I use MonoPoly thread almost exclusively in my bobbin, so a longer lasting needle is a welcome thing. The following information is printed with permission:
We learn a lot from associating with professional quilters, piecers, teachers, embroiderers, craft and clothing construction specialists, and thread artists. From our conversations, it seems like the majority of the professionals and teachers use the same needle style for nearly all their work. It is not the universal, quilting, embroidery, sharp (microtex), jeans, or metallic needle. It is the Topstitch needle. The Topstitch needle is like a hybrid needle, taking the best features from many other needle styles and combining them into one. Here is why the Topstitch needle is called the magic needle:
1. Double size eye. The eye of the Topstitch needle is nearly twice as long as other needle eyes. This allows the thread to pass through the eye without being stressed. Think of trying to lace up a shoelace through a too small eyelet compared to lacing the shoelace through a larger eyelet. Which way works better?
2. The groove which runs up the shaft of all needles is wider and deeper in the Topstitch style than in other needle types. This allows the thread to lie in the groove and the thread is protected, avoiding excess friction which causes fraying.
You really do not need ten different needle styles. The Topstitch needle is the ideal needle for most sewing projects. What size is best? The common sense way of determining the appropriate needle size is to select it based on the thread diameter.
Very fine threads such as #100 silk, Bottom Line, MonoPoly . . . . . . . Topstitch #70/10 (NEW product).
Fine threads such as #50 MasterPiece or #50 So Fine . . . . . . . . . . . . Topstitch #80/12.
Medium weight threads such as #40 King Tut and Rainbows . . . . . . . Topstitch #90/14.
Heavier threads such as Poly Quilter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Topstitch #100/16.
This information is printed in our Thread Selection Guide for Home Machines.
A look into Mother Superior's sewing supplies would reveal only Topstitch needles in all four sizes. Most needle manufacturers make the Topstitch style. Our Superior Topstitch needles are made exclusively for Superior Threads by the largest industrial needle company in the world , Organ Needle Company, and these are the only titanium-coated Topstitch style needles in the world. They last five to eight times longer than regular needles. All this for just 20 cents more per needle.
Another helpful link is the thread index for the home machine.
used with permission from Bob Purcell. www.superiorthreads.com
We learn a lot from associating with professional quilters, piecers, teachers, embroiderers, craft and clothing construction specialists, and thread artists. From our conversations, it seems like the majority of the professionals and teachers use the same needle style for nearly all their work. It is not the universal, quilting, embroidery, sharp (microtex), jeans, or metallic needle. It is the Topstitch needle. The Topstitch needle is like a hybrid needle, taking the best features from many other needle styles and combining them into one. Here is why the Topstitch needle is called the magic needle:
1. Double size eye. The eye of the Topstitch needle is nearly twice as long as other needle eyes. This allows the thread to pass through the eye without being stressed. Think of trying to lace up a shoelace through a too small eyelet compared to lacing the shoelace through a larger eyelet. Which way works better?
2. The groove which runs up the shaft of all needles is wider and deeper in the Topstitch style than in other needle types. This allows the thread to lie in the groove and the thread is protected, avoiding excess friction which causes fraying.
You really do not need ten different needle styles. The Topstitch needle is the ideal needle for most sewing projects. What size is best? The common sense way of determining the appropriate needle size is to select it based on the thread diameter.
Very fine threads such as #100 silk, Bottom Line, MonoPoly . . . . . . . Topstitch #70/10 (NEW product).
Fine threads such as #50 MasterPiece or #50 So Fine . . . . . . . . . . . . Topstitch #80/12.
Medium weight threads such as #40 King Tut and Rainbows . . . . . . . Topstitch #90/14.
Heavier threads such as Poly Quilter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Topstitch #100/16.
This information is printed in our Thread Selection Guide for Home Machines.
A look into Mother Superior's sewing supplies would reveal only Topstitch needles in all four sizes. Most needle manufacturers make the Topstitch style. Our Superior Topstitch needles are made exclusively for Superior Threads by the largest industrial needle company in the world , Organ Needle Company, and these are the only titanium-coated Topstitch style needles in the world. They last five to eight times longer than regular needles. All this for just 20 cents more per needle.
Another helpful link is the thread index for the home machine.
used with permission from Bob Purcell. www.superiorthreads.com
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